Chervil Mayonnaise

I love egg-based mayonnaise, which most people think originated in France. But there are conflicting stories and it seems that it actually is based on a sauce from Spain. So it seems natural that neighboring Portugal would have their own version. However France picked up the ball and mayonnaise, both homemade and store-bought, are pretty popular here.

Of course it makes a great dip for steamed artichokes or spiked with lots of garlic foraïoli, served with grilled toasts or alongside crisp vegetables. But in this version, loaded with the lively taste of fresh chervil, it did double-duty with the tasty sardines and the first artichokes of the season.

So I guess I have to thank the surprise storm I got caught in for giving me a couple more reasons to use my (overly) generous bunch of fresh herbs. All hail chervil!

Chervil Mayonnaise

About 1 cup (250 g)

Adapted from Leite’s Culinaria and The New Portuguese Table (Clarkson Potter) by David Leite

The original recipe says to use either a regular blender, or hand blender. Because milk is more liquid than egg yolks, expect a bit of splattering, which happened even when I used the relatively small pouring hole in my blender. If you have a small mesh strainer, you could put it over the hole to mitigate that. And wear an apron.

This would certainly work with any other fresh herb. And if you’re interested in the science of this emulsified sauce, and other variations, you can read more about them at the link above.

• 1/3 cup (80 ml) cold whole milk
• 1 1/2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 1 small clove of garlic
• 1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper
• 3/4 cup (180 ml) oil (I used a mix of half extra-virgin olive oil and colza oil)
• 3/4 cup (5 to 7 gr) picked chervil leaves
• 1/2 teaspoon sea salt

1. Mix the cold milk, lemon juice, garlic, and white pepper in a blender. Whiz on high speed for thirty seconds, until light and frothy. If using a hand blender, make the mayonnaise in a tall glass measuring cup.

2. With the blender on high speed, very slowly begin to drizzle in the oil, drop by drop, until it begins to thicken and become emulsified.

3. Continue to add the oil, in a very thin stream, until the mayonnaise is thick and smooth. Do not try to make this too quickly; the process of slowing incorporating the oil should take several minutes.

4. Finely chop the chervil leaves and add them to the mayonnaise, along with the salt. Taste, adding more salt and lemon juice, if desired.

Serve the sauce at room temperature. The sauce can be refrigerated for up to one week.

David Lebovitz